A week on Islay

[gejpalmer]

Afternoon All

Recently went to Islay for a week and thought I'd do a bit of a trip report, hope its of use for people considering a trip up there.

I spent a week, stayed at the Port Charlotte hostel, which is a cracking spot and would certainly recommend. I spent the week using buses and hitchhiking, which was really easy and certainly not having a car was not a loss.

I managed to visit 7 of the 8 distilleries, and did no more than 2 in a day, and even that was a struggle at times, as you can easily lose yourself in the amount of different malts you have (you lose track of them in your head, so wouldnt certainly recommend writing tasting notes as you go, not as scoring/publishing thing, simply to keep track so when you look back you remember them all.

In terms of the distilleries themselves

Bruichladdich - Only did the basic tour, which meant tasting only the new 10 year old, but kind shop staff offered us Port Charlotte PC9, and a 19 year old which was being bottled in the shop (it was a bottle your own from the cask, which offered a certain novelty). Overall it was one of the better tours, in terms a really good level of understanding from the guide, a smallish group and a slow enough pace. The shop was well stocked compared to others on the island (admittedly they have 10x the range of most others but the staff were well informed and gave a helpful understanding). Definitely worth a visit (if you are staying in Port Charlotte I'd recommend walking it, though its a straight road its a lovely walk)

Bunnahbhain - I did the £15 tasting tour, which gave 4 expressions, it was a less polished tour than Bruichladdich, with a must smaller shop. Whilst the tasting was ok, I couldnt help but feel rushed. The signs of the distillery emphasis on blends were clear to see. On the plus side, its a lovely walk from the Bridgend to Port Askaig road (about 1 1/2 hour walk down a lane) and if you want to stretch your legs its a nice distillery to visit (I hitched one way and walk back via Caol Ila)

Caol Ila - Is currently shut, I walked down the hill as far as to be able to see it. Obviously with the Diageo connection you can try plenty at Lagavulin (and they could recommend Caol Ila there)

Kilchoman - Not the easiest to reach if you arent driving, but definitely worth a visit. I hitched both way from the main road (about 5 miles). The distillery obviously has the attraction of its own maltings, but more than that, its probably the most welcoming of all the distilleries and even on the normal tour allowed a proper tasting of 2 expressions (the new 100% Islay and the Winter 2010 release (the Spring 2011 was sold out)). In addition to the distillery, a couple of attractions for those with a limited time are a cracking cafe to eat! And for those non whisky moments, a stunning beach at Machir Bay about a mile walk from the distillery. Its definitely worth allowing some extra time to head down for a walk.

Lagavulin - Did the warehouse bit of Warehouse demonstration (having arrived a bit late for the tour). Walked from Port Ellen, which was a nice idea as its an easy couple of miles to stretch your legs. The demonstration itself is basically a tasting from casks in the warehouse of different ages of Lagavulin. Certainly informative as a talk, whether its worth your money is whether you have a taste for Lagavulin tbh, it didnt blow me away, but then I suspect that was much to do the whisky being tasted as anything.

Laphraig - The most interesting of the tours, and a snip at £3, by far and away the most informative, obviously with their own maltings, its something they emphasis on, with very friendly staff. The tour itself gave a tasting of the Quarter Cask, which, considering it was a standard tour I was pleased by. Though I only did the standard tour at Bruichladdich and Laphraig I noticed most places only gave their most standard bottling for taste. They gave the 10 year old and 18 year old to taste against, which I think was important. I'm far from a Laphroaig drinker, but I would certainly recommend it as a tour if you have limited time

Ardbeg - I did the tasting tour as the afternoon of double day with Laphroig in the morning (which works excellently in terms of time, if you do the morning basic tour at Laphroig, you have plenty of time to walk along to Ardbeg, lunch in the excellent cafe and then time for the tour and then time for a wander before the bus). The tasting tour, is in essence a standard tour, then you try 5 expressions, and as a tasting goes it was one of the better ones (with right level of advice/pointers with a willingness to discuss your own views. The 5 expressions (Blasda, 10 year old, Uigiedeal, Corryvreckan and Alligator) were tasted in a good order (as above), and not just in age like some places.

Bowmore - As I'm a Bowmore drinker, I thought I'd go for the Craftsmen tour, this is basically a personal tour, with as much time taken as you'd like, a tasting from casks in the warehouse and then up to the bar for your choice from the range (including some of limited editions (Maltmens and Feis Ile 2009 were amongst the 15 choices). Whether its worth the £40 price, is debatable, as I am a great Bowmore drinker, I think it was probably worth the price to have a personal tour, which obviously allowed far more discussion than on a normal tour, then to have the choice in the bar (with recommendations) is nice, especially if you are familiar with core range. Others, who arent Bowmore drinkers would probably stick to the normal tour and be happy

I would certainly urge any one going to take time, I did no more than 2 in a day (Lagavulin/Bowmore and Laphroag/Ardbeg), and having a week allowed me to spend a bit of time exploring the rest of the island. Public transport is very easy and practical, and gets you out and speaking to people, on an immensely friendly island. Have no fear if you miss a bus, I found hitching is easy (though as always everyone has to understand the risk), and even when I was standing at bus stops people stopped and offered me lifts. As a base, Port Charlotte was excellent, easy enough with public transport and a couple of good places to eat, mention of the Port Charlotte Hotel, with an excellent whisky.

Hope thats of help to people, any questions give me a shout

[MacDeffe]

Nice report

An alternative walk from PC to Kilchoman is to take the wee road west over the hill to Kilchiaran, up over/behind the radar station and down on to Machir Bay

Steffen

[Mr Tattie Heid]

Thanks for the report, gejpalmer. Personally, I would never go to Islay without a car, but I'm pleased to hear that it can be done.

[Jerome]

Many thanks for this, gejpalmer! You were able to experience one of my dream, week-long whisky vacations.

[gejpalmer]

Thanks for the report, gejpalmer. Personally, I would never go to Islay without a car, but I'm pleased to hear that it can be done.

I found no problems, as long as you can get you head round the timetable its fine. Kilchoman is a bit of an issue, but as a bloke in my mid 20s I have no problem hitchhiking. And when I investigated taxi fares, they werent silly prices.

Even if you have a car, I'd certainly recommend the Bunnhabhain walk and the Ardbeg one too. The latter in particularly is very easy to walk one way and bus it back.

I always think its a shame to travel everywhere in the car as you have to concentrate on the road, not your surroundings.

[gejpalmer]

Nice report

An alternative walk from PC to Kilchoman is to take the wee road west over the hill to Kilchiaran, up over/behind the radar station and down on to Machir Bay

Steffen

That was one someone in the hostel I stayed at did, there are a lot of possibilities, for both long and short strolls. A walk around Portnhaven was lovely in the non whisky moments

[Mr Tattie Heid]

I always think its a shame to travel everywhere in the car as you have to concentrate on the road, not your surroundings.

I hear that...but with a car, you can get to different surroundings more quickly! Just have to remember to get out now and then.

[Peat Sampras]

I was on Islay this Summer for a week, and with a car. Car permitted me to drop by distilleries quickly for obligatory visits (had been there before) and to drive to some spots from where to start nice walks (Loch Gruinart and north shore and a lot of Mull of Oa). BTW I studied the bus timetable but it looked really complicated to me

[Mr Tattie Heid]

I was on Islay last night. Hey, I'm here now.

[Mr Tattie Heid]

If the world ends tomorrow, as predicted, would someone please let me know? I expect we won't notice here.

[portwood]

If the world ends tomorrow, as predicted, would someone please let me know? I expect we won't notice here.

As my kids would say, as long as you have internet connection it's all good

[DavidUK]

Thanks for sharing. Very interesting even though, or maybe because, I have been to Islay before.

Were the distilleries busy at this time of year?

[gejpalmer]

In terms of general visitors, ie not big groups, then most were reasonably busy. All the tours had at least 4/5 people on (Bowmore obbviously excepted). The 3 Southern distilleries were the busiest. Particularly Laphroaig and Ardbeg (unsurprisinly I thought, given they are probably the 2 with the most dedicated followings). Bowmore was pretty busy (and seemed to have the most "casual" visitors, as its central and easiest for those visiting Islay for a general trip). Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich were both pretty quiet, though the latter had quite a number of whisky drinkers (ie more than just a casual drinker). Kilchoman was quite busy, with most people on my tour seemingly having popped in after seeing it on route to the beach.

In terms of big tours of coach parties, I only ever saw them at the 3 Southern distilleries.

Basically, it wasnt packed, and you could walk in to most and get on a tour, but was worth booking ahead on tours I thought, particularly for the 3 Southern distilleries.

Overall I thought it was really nice time of year to visit, 1 day apart I had no midges, and the light was from about 7am to 7pm so you could make the most of the day (and also seeing a stunning dawn over Loch Indaal).

[peaty001]

Thanks for sharing. Very interesting even though, or maybe because, I have been to Islay before.

Were the distilleries busy at this time of year?

Returned from Islay last weekend after a week enfamille. Despite the mainland school holidays and English school holidays this week it was quiet. Some places already closed for the season including Museum of Islay Life and Croft Kitchen opposite. The distilleries had adopted winter timetables so were only open Mon-Fri.

Ardbeg was very busy on the Monday at lunch time but the weather was especialy poor. It was very quiet after 3 o'clock which I was told is normal once the rush over lunch has subsided.
There was an occasional minibus of whisky tourists but nothing larger at distilleries (Lagavulin and Laphroig) hoovering up bottles but still enough room to accomodate everyone. I took the manager's tour at Bunnahabhain and thought it good value. Relaxed and detailed helped no doubt because it was just me and one other.
The Islay Hotel has opened at last and is looking very bright and new. The barman said that they too had been very busy over lunch time and expected to be again at dinner. And it was a bit of a squeeze in the Port Charlotte Hotel the night we ate there.

[Mark549]

Yeah……you pretty much live my short-term dream vacation/holiday on that trip.

[DavidUK]

Yeah……you pretty much live my short-term dream vacation/holiday on that trip.

Just get a flight to Glasgow Mark and you're nearly there!! You wouldn't regret it.

[peaty001]

Yeah……you pretty much live my short-term dream vacation/holiday on that trip.

Just get a flight to Glasgow Mark and you're nearly there!! You wouldn't regret it.

2nd that.
been travelling to Islay regularly over the years and it never fails to reward return visits but that may just piss you off more Mark.

[Mark549]

I regularly scout the airfare from Dallas and it hovers around $1,500. The best option for me is to retire in a few years and take the wife for a month-long trip to Scotland and take our time as much as possible. I'd for sure want to plan a week on Islay.

[DavidUK]

I regularly scout the airfare from Dallas and it hovers around $1,500. The best option for me is to retire in a few years and take the wife for a month-long trip to Scotland and take our time as much as possible. I'd for sure want to plan a week on Islay.

Don't forget to stay at least one night on Jura. It's my favourite of all the islands. A truly amazing, yet bizarre place.

[cummo]

i will get to islay one day.....only about 16000km between me and islay

[Luke]

Afternoon All

Recently went to Islay for a week and thought I'd do a bit of a trip report, hope its of use for people considering a trip up there.

I just found this post, made for an interesting read.

I last visited Islay in 2008 and I'm heading there again in July this year (super excited!).

I'm planning to get to all of the distilleries this time, and perhaps even to Jura for an evening (and naturally I'll visit Jura Distillery).

I didn't take a car last time, but in the interests of efficiency I am this time. I'll still be walking to and from some of the distilleries though, the Islay scenery is stunning and I agree that it's nice to take a stroll and enjoy it.

[TheManWithNoName]

Nice story to read!

Would visiting Islay and it's distilleries work backpacking with a tent? I guess that would be my method of choice, guess you would need more than a week then if you really want to visit them all.

[LeoDLion]

This is a timely post. I am planning to go to Islay next year 2013. We can take the Islay whisky tour or go on our own. We'll see.

[gejpalmer]

Nice story to read!

Would visiting Islay and it's distilleries work backpacking with a tent? I guess that would be my method of choice, guess you would need more than a week then if you really want to visit them all.

Cant see it being a problem, there are a number of campsites.

Personally, I wouldnt try and do it quicker than I did it, as it would just end up being a blast of whisky, and you wouldnt see the island too much. I think it a week was fine, any longer would be a bonus

[Mr Tattie Heid]

I'll repeat (no pun intended) what I've said here many times: it's a mistake to go to Islay, run around all the distilleries in three or four days, and leave. You miss the island itself that way, what the place and the people are all about. And for the umpteenth time, I'll recommend Andrew Jefford's Peat Smoke and Spirit (a portrait of Islay and its whiskies). It was originally published in 2004, and some of the whisky information is getting to be out-of-date, but the non-distillery chapters (which someone here once described as "the boring parts") are fascinating and priceless. Read it cover-to-cover before you go. Or if you've already been, read it now, and see why you must go back.