Madeira - Eager to learn more

[Exciseman]

I'm anxious to know more about Madeira Wine. All that I know is that there are four quite distinct styles. Help please

[C57]

Madeira is fortified wine (like sherry) made on, strangely enough, Madeira.
The types are varied according to sweetness and from memory, the history was that the wine was transported around the world quite often and in crossing the equator was almost "cooked" leading to a distinctive style.
I believe that now, the wine is heated artificially (because that's cheaper!).

Malmsey, Bual, Verdhelo and Sercial were the types IIRC, and that is in order of sweetest first - I think they are also grape varieties, but await Doug's explanation for the detail

The Duke of Clarence died in a butt of Malmsey, my father was fond of telling me (I think it was a case of leaning over a butt, and being suffocated by the CO2, then falling in and drowning).

[Mr Tattie Heid]

Get your head out of your butt, Duke....

[The Third Dram]

...but await Doug's explanation for the detail...

http://www.cigarweekly.com/magazine/lifestyles/05-21-2004/a-rich-pour---column-no.-2:-madeira---a-magical-and-majestic-wine-(part-1)
http://www.cigarweekly.com/magazine/lifestyles/07-16-2004/a-rich-pour---column-no.-3:-madeira---a-magical-and-majestic-wine-(part-2)
These articles are a little dated now, though still - by and large - informatively applicable.

Doug

[The Third Dram]

A few quick 'pointers'...

1. The regulations for production/marketing of Madeira have been tightened up. No longer can Madeira wines produced (either wholly or predominantly) from the Tinta Negra Mole grape sport labels relating to the noble grape varieties (Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, Malmsey, Terrantez, etc.). Instead, you will find that such wines now carry descriptors (such as dry, medium dry, medium sweet or sweet) on their labels. Some of these wines can be quite good, and fully deserving of tasting in a glass. However, others will be targeted more for people who use them in cooking (such as preparation of sauces). You're therefore almost always better off to opt for a Madeira wine from one of the noble grape varieties.

2. As a result of the above-mentioned fact, as well as of increased labour and production costs, the overall price of Madeira has risen fairly substantially over the last decade or so. Bargains are few and far between now.

3. Remember that Madeira, though a fortified wine, still deserves to be treated as a wine! Don't serve it at too warm a temperature. Bual and Malmsey wines are always better at cellar temperature. Many a Verdelho wine can stand being served even a little bit cooler. And Sercial wines are often better moderately chilled.

4. It's difficult to recommend a 'best value' price range, as this largely depends on one's personal tastes and pocketbook. Nonetheless, I've found that spending a few extra dollars to purchase a 10 or 15-year old Madeira is usually well worth the financial outlay. If you really want to 'go crazy', then do consider plunking down the bucks for a Vintage Madeira, which can be (and often is) simply magnificent! Best I've had to date is a Blandy's 1977 Bual... the finish of this one lasts practically forever.

Enjoy!

[The Third Dram]

Also, remember that a bottle of Madeira can remain open for extended periods of time without significant degradation.

And one other thing... Adding the tiniest drop of a quality Madeira to the bottom of your dram (preferably Scotch malt whisky) can often transform the flavour characteristics of the whisky in a most positive fashion. Don't shy away from experimenting.

P.S. This works best with whiskies that have been matured exclusively in ex-Bourbon or refill casks.

[Exciseman]

Third Dram


Thank you, thank you, thank you for all of this. I'll read it all in the weeks leading up to my trip to Funchal (can't remember when).


Tim

[The Third Dram]

My pleasure, Tim.

Doug

P.S. Your upcoming trip sounds like it will be a superb one.

[Exciseman]

Just back from Funchal, Madeira, where I visited two Wine Lodges.

Blandy's was somewhat 'tourist orientated', although the tour was excellent for a beginner like me. Much of it took place in amongst the giant casks(?) of maturing wine on the very hot upper floors of the Lodge. Afterwards, for about £6, there was the chance to sample 5 year olds from the four main 'noble' grape varieties (Sercial, Verdehlo, Boal, and Malmesey).

D'Oliveiras was less commercialised, with free tastings on offer. On my first visit, I sampled 5 year olds from the four 'noble' grapes plus a 10 year old Malmesey. On my second visit, I had the same again plus a Vintage 1984 Malmesey accompanied by Madeira cake.

I loved Madeira Wine (especially the sweeter expressions)!!!!!! But was I simply beguiled by the Wine Lodge experience (I guess akin to tasting single malts in an actual dunnage warehouse)? I suppose that the 'acid test' will be trying a bottle or three back in the UK.

[Mark C]

The one thing I have learned is that Madeira is bomb-proof!

The other guys in the shop and two others split a bottle from 1868 which had suffered the misfortune of the cork falling in just after selling at auction and got it cheap, but it's fine.

[Exciseman]

It certainly is. I think I'm right in saying that collectors of seriously old vintages routinely replace corks every decade or so (something that would be unthinkable to a whisky or wine collector).

In one Wine Lodge, there were bottles of 1850 vintage on the shop shelf for general sale (approx £600). Imagine, 1850 !!!!!!

[Mark C]

Yeah, this 1868 bottle went for £300 before the cork fell in...

[ball o' malt]

I just had a taste of my quarter of this bottle - Blandy's Bual 1868. It's amazing - hugely intense and complex, but also downright weird. I've never tasted a wine quite like it, but then I've never had a wine this old before. My tasting notes included prunes, licquorice, old furniture, TCP, cigar spice and a sour finish.

The only other vintage madeira I've had was a bottle of D'Oliveras Verdelho 1973, which I got for a knock-down price years ago when Safeways was taken over. I don't remember the details except that it was stunning, and sparked my interest in madeira.

[The Third Dram]

The esteemed Michael Broadbent has always considered Madeira (especially the older vintage and Solera examples) one of the world's truly great wines.

Who am I to argue?

[ABZ12]

For the 2nd revision of my 10 litre cask experiment (must update with results from the port seasoning), I have opted for a madeira soak into the cask prior to the whisky going in. I'm therefore encouraged by Doug's words!

Also, remember that a bottle of Madeira can remain open for extended periods of time without significant degradation.

And one other thing... Adding the tiniest drop of a quality Madeira to the bottom of your dram (preferably Scotch malt whisky) can often transform the flavour characteristics of the whisky in a most positive fashion. Don't shy away from experimenting.

P.S. This works best with whiskies that have been matured exclusively in ex-Bourbon or refill casks.