Calvados

[Mr Tattie Heid]

My local paper picked up this article on Calvados from the New York Times.

[The Third Dram]

I've been regularly sipping on Roger Groult's 15 Year Old Calvados over the last month or so, and thoroughly enjoying the spirit... Crisper and less unctuous than a Spanish Brandy, more characterful than most Cognacs and fruitier than many a Speysider.

[jsaliga]

Many thanks guys. I am sure this is not the best Calvados but it seems to me to be a pretty good place to start.

--Jerome

[Mr Tattie Heid]

There isn't the range in calvados that there is in single malt scotch--I've never done any head-to-head, as I tend to have only one bottle of calvados around at a time, but I have serious doubt about my ability to differentiate one from another. Maybe someone coming at it from a cognac point-of-view would think different. One thing I'd say is stick with the XO's and older, and skip the Boulard Grande Solage, which is just too young to drink neat. It is also, unfortunately, the most widely available calvados in the US and Canada.

[jsaliga]

I appreciate the insights nonetheless. You know a lot more about it than I do. The bottle I have tastes a bit young to my palate. It's a bit light and zippy with not much wood influence to be found. But what the hey, it was less than $40 and for the money spent I am not disappointed. It has some very nice qualities and I think I can enjoy it every now and then. It also has me wondering about what an older Calvados would be like, and given the flavor profile of the Menorval XO I must admit to being intrigued.

--Jerome

[Mr Tattie Heid]

That's interesting that you find it young tasting--I think I'd have to agree about XO's generally. You should have no trouble finding some 15yo's, which will maybe be more to your taste. Of course, the older they are, the more they will resemble whisky, as the wood plays a greater role.

The other tidbit I can throw at you (which I may have mentioned already) is that the appellation Pays d'Auge indicates one small region within Calvados, where the practice is double distillation in former cognac stills. Elsewhere, single distillation in Holstein-type stills is standard. How much difference this makes, I can't say. I imagine double distillation would be claimed to make a smoother spirit.

Below a photo I took in a stillhouse in the Pays d'Auge in 2003, showing ex-cognac stills. Sorry I don't remember offhand which distillery this is--I visited five or six of them.

[jsaliga]

Very interesting stuff. Thanks for the additional info and the picture. My Calvados education continues.

--Jerome

[Mr Tattie Heid]

Well, now you know pretty much everything I know about Calvados.

[jsaliga]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiKGeV36CIs

--Jerome

[jsaliga]

There isn't the range in calvados that there is in single malt scotch--I've never done any head-to-head, as I tend to have only one bottle of calvados around at a time, but I have serious doubt about my ability to differentiate one from another. Maybe someone coming at it from a cognac point-of-view would think different. One thing I'd say is stick with the XO's and older, and skip the Boulard Grande Solage, which is just too young to drink neat. It is also, unfortunately, the most widely available calvados in the US and Canada.

It is about to get a little more interesting. I have a a couple of bottles scheduled for delivery tomorrow. One is a 15 yr old blend and the other a 20 year old vintage calvados. I will note that the two youngish bottles I have at the moment are quite good. The apple notes come through very strongly on the nose and palate, and it is pleasing to nose and taste. I'm looking forward to the comparisons to the older stuff.

--Jerome

[Mr Tattie Heid]

Just had a wee spot myself. Seems somehow appropriate after the turkey.

[jsaliga]

I cracked open this older Calvados from Christian Drouin tonight. Blended from brandies between 15 and 20 years old, this Calvados has a lot in common with a good XO Cognac or Armagnac. The apple base is still there, but the longer wood aging does make for a more complex drink that provides a few interesting twists and turns. An excellent drink, but truth be told I like a younger Calvados too.

--Jerome

[Mr Tattie Heid]

One thing I'd say is stick with the XO's and older, and skip the Boulard Grande Solage, which is just too young to drink neat. It is also, unfortunately, the most widely available calvados in the US and Canada.

The topic of calvados came up in the pub that is essentially my local in Quebec City this weekend. The Grande Solage is the only one they have, and I thought I'd revisit it--it's been quite a long time since I tried it. I was very pleasantly surprised. It's quite simple and lacking in depth, but is very drinkable neat--not at all the rough and raw spirit I remembered. Either it has improved, or I am somehow more receptive to it. Whatever the case, I wouldn't have any problem recommending it to someone who wanted an inexpensive introduction to the drink, with the understanding that the older product will be much more complex and rewarding.

[It occurs to me that the bottle at the bar may have been open for quite a while, and that might have made some difference...I may buy a bottle myself soon to see what a fresh one is like.]